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Superior Health & Service
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You may ask, "Superior
health -- what do you mean, Barry? A ball python
is either healthy or it isn't, right?" Well,
it's not quite that simple.
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Here are some of the things I do to keep my
ball pythons in a state of superior health:
Routine Fecal Examinations
I own a good quality
microscope (with a mechanical stage), and I have years of experience
using it. I do routine parasite screens of all incoming ball
pythons, and I do spot checks of my long-term captives. I've
never found parasites in my established collection, but I've found
lots of parasites in captive-bred ball pythons that I purchased from
other breeders. That includes finding parasites in an adult,
captive-bred ball python for which I paid
thousands of dollars, a ball python that had been in the
other breeder's collection for years.
No Mites Allowed
This is a "pet
peeve" of mine. Any reptile breeder that knowingly ships
mites to a customer, shouldn't be in this business -- we don't need
people like that! Any reptile breeder that unknowingly ships
mites to customers because they don't check their animals well
enough is almost as bad. I don't accept shipments of snakes
with mites, and I wish nobody would. If everyone refused all
reptiles with mites at the airport, and had the animals shipped
back, we could put those breeders out of business where they belong.
(Make no mistake. There are some well-known breeders that ship
mites with their reptiles.)
Long-Term Quarantine
Before a ball python is
added to my collection, it is quarantined in a separate room for at
least six months. I consult with an accomplished veterinarian
(a reptile specialist) and treat any parasite infestations or other
conditions that are detected. I'm a fanatic about keeping my
ball python collection clean and not letting any diseases or parasites
get into it.
Only High-Quality Frozen Food
All my ball
pythons eat frozen/thawed food. This feeding method has many
benefits, but one of the most important is that the freezing process
kills parasites. In contrast, many other snake breeders feed
their ball pythons live rats and mice from colonies that have never
been tested for internal parasites. I start my ball
python babies right out on frozen/thawed food, so most of my ball
pythons have never even seen a live food animal.
Strict Maintenance Schedule
I maintain very
high standards of care for each one of my ball pythons. Each
snake has its own cage, which is kept very clean, and they have
fresh, bottled, spring water available at all times. I use
Infection Control Procedures (derived from human hospital prodecures)
to prevent transmission of disease-causing organisms.
Excellent Communication and Support
I've been a
teacher all my life (snake keeping, martial arts, various college
courses, etc.), and I'm the author of a successful
snake-keeping book.
If you have a problem with your ball pythons, I have the
experience, communication skills, and desire to help you get past
it.
Detailed Quality Control
Each ball python is
accurately represented to potential buyers, and I inspect each ball
python carefully before shipping it to a customer. Your
satisfaction is guaranteed. I know what it's like to pay
several thousand dollars for a baby ball python and have it arrive
with a kink in its spine (no fun, believe me). I work very hard
to make sure that won't happen with any of our transactions. Of
course, I sent the kinked ball python back to the breeder because I
couldn't accept an animal that may have had a genetic problem.
Low-Stress Life
We know that stress can
predispose a reptile to illness and cause all sorts of other
problems. I got my first snakes over 30 years ago, and I've
developed a set of snake-keeping techniques that are designed to
provide the best, low-stress care possible. I'm happy to share
my experience with customers to help ensure that you are successful
with the ball pythons you buy from SuperSnakes.
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